Newsflash: Invader alert. No, not giant marauding crayfish but chefs from across both ponds seeking to set up camp on our shores. At first there was the creep of French-style bistros and the odd diner, perfectly attuned to our slightly more straitened circumstances, but now the oven gloves are off and it’s war.
It’s as if the gods have descended from some culinary Olympus on high to show us how to do it all over again. In the red, white and blue corner of La Belle France we have Bruno Loubet, last seen fleeing to Australia on the last ship out and now back to set up shop at The Zetter; Pierre Koffman, whom you may remember seemed surgically attached to Selfridges roof last summer and now keen to tackle the black hole that is the Berkeley Hotel and even Joà«l Antunes is bringing his Brasserie Joà«l to Westminster. And let’s not forget the behemoth that is Alain Ducasse, hell-bent on covering the planet in Ducasse-lets. In the – um – other red, white and blue corner of the USA, look out for Daniel Boulud and his infamous burgers, April Bloomfield of Spotted Pig fame and even the whiz kids behind New York funk-spot Manhattan are taking over Covent Garden with Balthazar. It’s hard to keep track and this is just the vanguard. Read full post