Sugarvine

Nothing we eat or drink is more misunderstood. Steeped in mythology yet beset with bad press, it remains an acclaimed delicacy. Horror stories abound - hang it until it's crawling, mouldy or maggoty - so little wonder that many people are nervous of ordering it in a restaurant, buying it in a supermarket or cooking it at home. In truth game, by and large, deserves a clean bill of health. Properly reared and free from antibiotics it is lean, delicious, healthy and surprisingly cheap.

Back in the pre-refrigerator days of yore, when ordinary Joe was hanged for taking game, it was the exclusive preserve of the Royal Family and their hangers on. Most meat was eaten high. Today we know better and game should be treated like any other meat and cooked sensibly to your own taste. Usually it is best served 'pink' to ensure tenderness, as over-cooking can make it tough. Easily available on the High Street are Venison, Rabbit, Pheasant, Partridge, Pigeon and wild Duck. Less easy to find - try your specialist Game Merchant - are Grouse, Snipe, Woodcock and Hare.

The famous Savoy Hotel chef, Escoffier, went to prison for serving game out of season but today's society is a little more easy-going. Officially, the Game season starts on August 12th with Grouse first off the block (overpriced, hard to find and best left for the deep-pocketed aristocracy). Each country has its specialities - Tuscan Confit of Rabbit, French Pheasant Chasseur but, in our opinion, British is best.

Devon and Cornwall have their fair share of establishments that revel in the Fur and Feather and one venue located right in the heart of 'Gameland' is The Springer Spaniel pub in Treburley near Launceston. Here they live and breathe Game. The pub is the meeting place for the farm workers, shoot members and no doubt the odd poacher. Expect a warm welcome with crackling fires, wet dogs and Pheasants hanging. The pub is just about to launch its new winter menu, which contains a host of dishes featuring the best local game including pheasant, wild duck, partridge, rabbit and venison. You can rest assured that the game is genuine as the pub menu even carries a health warning that dishes may contain shot!

In the heart of Devon, set in 70 acres of park and woodland just inside Dartmoor National Park, you'll find Holne Chase Hotel, the former Hunting Lodge to Buckfast Abbey. Here you can join a shoot or just take a back seat and live the life, taking your own dog and staying in one of the recently refurbished 'Sporting Lodges'. In the evening, kick off the Wellies and enjoy the excellent Game menu prepared by top chef, Michael Davies. Try the starters of Roast Partridge with Game Chips, Bread Sauce and Seasoned Vegetables or Sauteed Pheasant with Tarragon and Pearl Barley Sausage with Yellow Split Peas and Madeira Sauce. Mains might include Pan Fried Dartmoor Venison, with Celeriac Puree and Cranberry & Redcurrant Jus. Or Wild Rabbit Loin with its own Liver Sauce Baked in a Brioche Crust with Pancetta Vegetables.

In and around Exeter City there is a good choice of different restaurants offering Game on the menu. Near the Cathedral is Brazz, a contemporary and stylish brasserie. This is as authentic a bar-restaurant as you would find on the continent -- everything is done with a degree of quality with little touches everywhere, not to mention the décor with 'that' fish tank. There is a section of its menu devoted to local fresh produce called 'Market Place' that changes weekly and includes Partridge on Butternut Squash with Pancetta and Braised Shallots and Confit Duck Leg with Pommes Puree and Savoy Cabbage.

Around the corner in Cathedral Yard is Michael Caines offering several dishes such as Guinea Fowl with Tagliatelle, Wild Mushrooms and Asparagus served with a White Wine and Tarragon Sauce, Roast Pheasant with Braised Lentils and Herbs with a Port Jus and Roast Partridge with Savoy Cabbage, Bacon, Roast Parsnips and an Autumn Berry Sauce. On Mary Arches Street in its own walled garden, lies the chic town house hotel and restaurant St Olaves Court. The 2 AA Rosette restaurant is offering a special game menu in a relaxed yet smart atmosphere. Perfect for any occasion. As starters try Pigeon and Foie Gras Pasties with Herb Salad and Quince Jelly or Game Terrine with Beetroot Chutney, Shallot and Thyme Toast and for mains Traditional Roast Pheasant served with Bread Sauce, Rosemary Stuffing and Game Chips. Roast Saddle of Venison with Roasted Root Vegetables, Celeriac Puree and Beetroot Crisps or Pan Fried Loin of Hare with Confit Rabbit Hash Cake served with Pancetta Braised Vegetables and a Rabbit Liver Sauce.

On the outskirts of Exeter in Newton Poppleford there is a star in the ascendant called Dawsons run by husband and wife team Chris and Karen. They have a special game dinner arranged where the menu is based on the traditional British food that many country-sporting estates have proudly served to their family and guests for generations. Expect Creamed confit rabbit pie with parsley and mustard cream and Pheasant Soup with Herbed Dumplings or try Whole Traditional Roast Partridge, Bread Sauce, Game Chips, Buttered Savoy Cabbage and Bacon with Sage Jus. Near the airport in Rockbear is the 2 AA Rosette pub restaurant Jack in The Green. They have a two course menu that includes game dishes such as a starter of Pan fried breast of pigeon with lardons in a Madeira jus and a main of Loin of local venison with sweet peppercorn sauce and celeriac.

In central Devon, there's the 2 Michelin Starred Gidleigh Park, where Michael Caines heads a team that produces innovative dishes like Roast partridge with braised chicory, quince and roasted walnuts, and a Gewurztraminer wine sauce; Roast grouse with cep mushrooms, celeriac puree, autumn berries and red wine sauce; Saddle of venison and smoked crispy belly pork with glazed chestnuts, baby fennel, roasted cep mushrooms, and raisins soaked in jasmine tea,; Roast pheasant with boudin noir, lentils, and cabbage with red wine sauce; and Salad of wild duck with game hollandaise, celeriac chips and pan-fried foie gras. All this plus Woodcock and Snipe at the right time of year.

At The Arundell Arms in Lifton, Master Chefs Philip Burgess and Nick Shopland are at the helm of a 3 AA Rosette Dining Room that will feature Partridge, Pheasant, Grouse and Snipe -- in fact a selection of the residents' shooting successes. In North Devon the impressive and grand hideaway of Northcote Manor in Umberleigh near Torrington has 3 AA Rosettes and menus running that feature unique game such as Burrington Duck from Roy Mount in Chumleigh served with crushed potatoes and a Balsamic Dressing for a lunch starter and Loin of West Country Venison with Saffron Cocotte Potatoes, Savoy Cabbage and a Red Wine Sauce or Breast of Guinea Fowl with White Truffle Creamed Potato and a Tarragon Cream Sauce as mains.

Around north Cornwall, the smart resort in Wadebridge Hustyns is offering a selection of dishes based upon availability each day including Venison, Partridge, Pheasant and Woodcock. In nearby Rock, Chef Nathan Outlaw at the Black Pig has Venison from top company Plough to Plate, the Cornish meat specialist. Here it is served with Roast Parsnip, Shallots, Spinach, Orange, Chestnuts and Bitter Chocolate. The ex-Head Chef of The Vineyard at Stockcross in Berkshire set up his own venture in May this year. Other tempting dishes on the menu are Game Terrine with Red Leg Partridge, Braised Rabbit, White Beans, Savoy Cabbage, Cress Salad, Apple and Pickled Walnuts. Also Duck Breast and cured leg with Red Lentils, Leeks, Chicory and Tarragon.

In Truro, the wonderfully adventurous Saffron (pictured above) has half mallards, partridges and pheasants with great Belgian beers to match the flavours. The Garras Restaurant at The Green Lawns Hotel in Falmouth has a policy of adding to the daily changing menu as different game are made available that morning and this arrangement is mirrored by a few restaurants including Pescadou where Gareth Eddy is working hard to exceed expectations, adding another quality dining option in Padstow.

Tabb's of Portreath, where Nigel Tabb consistently offers some of the best cooking in the area, has special wild hare shot by a friend. Whilst at the Michelin Starred Abbey in Penzance, Ben Tunnicliffe has quickly risen to the challenge of becoming an Ambassador for Cornwall cuisine, having represented the county on many occasions recently. Ben also has a daily changing menu that will feature any game that becomes available from one of his shooting pals.

For further information on the availability of Game from good suppliers, check out Cornwall Food Finder and Devon Food Links.