Sukhothai
It was one of the best Thai experiences in the region. It had the most diligent and courteous staff. Its reputation went before it. So what's happened?
There's been a major change at Sukhothai -- Thai owner and head chef Ban Kaewkraikhot and English partner and manager Gerrard Marks have capitalised on their success, and enlarged the restaurant, not by changing it's solid location, but by expanding into next door so to increase the capacity to 68, and installing some quality and charm that wouldn't look out of place in the heart of Leeds or London town. The kitchen has also doubled in size, allowing for a more varied range of dishes; you'll find more steamed and grilled selections now.
Ban has transformed this somewhat quirky Chapel Allerton Thai into a smarter, more minimalistic, modern dining experience for the discerning. On the far end of the restaurant wall hangs a gentle giant of a gilded mask that is Buddha's face, which gently smiles down on the hungry pilgrims that now come en masse to Sukhothai. If you're seated close to the entrance, you may notice the breeze wafting in through the door, marking the entry of yet more patrons who religiously turn up -- some to be disappointed only for the lack of table space due to Sukhothai's popularity, even midweek. But it's nothing that can't be fixed with a draping of silk from the intricately carved partition that divides the bar and small waiting area from the dining room.
The a la carte menu caters for the uninitiated with simple explanations of each classified dish. What would be a good idea perhaps for the social diners is the Sukhothai Special Mixed Starter for two (£7.95) - a selection of spring rolls, chicken wings and vegetables in batter and fish cake. A very nice vegetarian option is Hed Tod (£3) - fresh mushrooms deep fried in light batter and served with sweet chilli sauce. Thai salads come as an interesting combination. For instance, the spicy Som Tum (£4.50) consists of shredded papaya with carrot, tomato, chilli, peanut, palm sugar and dried shrimp. What has proved very popular here are the specials dishes -- still a la carte, but denoted by an 'X' , no doubt for that 'X' factor. These excellent dishes comprise of a choice of meats, with the most interesting perhaps being the vegetarian version. The 'X3' - Penaeng Tofu consists of Beancurd served in a rich curry with coconut milk and lime leaves (£6.50). Wine-wise you'd be better off opting for a wine beyond the house, although this is quite acceptable if you're penny-pinched. There are set meals available for two, three and four people ranging from £16pp to £18pp with a choice of three set meals for each number. The advantage of course is that you do have more of a choice, it is even better value for money, and of course, it's fun to share. Thai desserts are really something special, and to be recommended are Sweet Sticky Rice with Banana (£3.25) and Thai Custard (£2.50).
Whether you're a convert or a dedicated follower of fashionable temples of fine food, you may leave Sukhothai with visions of returning before too long. Most do it seems, and one could well imagine further growth for the restaurant or thoughts of creating yet more centres of culinary inspiration. But then that would be getting away from the essentially simple philosophy that both Ban and Gerrard have gently developed. Sukhothai, literally translated as the dawn of happiness, grows ever brighter.
Sukhothai
Regent House
8 Regent Street
Chapel Allerton
Leeds
Tel: 0113 237 0141
Read More Features: The Hare Inn | Eating On The North York Moors | Storm | The Art Of Experimentation | The Olive Press | The City Limits | J Baker's Bistro Moderne | Good Food And Open Fires | The Pax | Good Bars, Good Restaurants | The Gray Ox | The Cheese Course | The Beehive | Where To Wine & Dine In Yorkshire | The Restaurant Bar & Grill | Dining Out In Bradford | Lockwoods | Yorkshire's Culinary Stars | Salvo's | A Room With A View | Angel's Share | Modern British, Old World Charm | Aagrah | Country Pub Dining In Yorkshire | A Swanky Night Out | The Blue Bicycle | Sukhothai - Off-Motorway Dining, The Good-Value Venues | Wasabi | Eating On The Beaten Track | Orchid | Family-Friendly Venues | Hob Green (March 2005) | The Fruits Of The Sea (March 2005) | Where To Dine Out In Style (December 2004) | Bella Med (December 2004) | Exploring The Food Chain (October 2004) | Malmasion Hotel (October 2004) | Where To Eat Italian (August 2004) | Le Bon Apetit (June 2004) | Gastropub Dining Around Leeds (June 2004) | Country House Dining (May 2004) | Anams (May 2004) | Live Music Dining Venues (April 2004) | Harris's (March 2004) | The Taste Of The East (March 2004) | Est Est Est (February 2004) | Where Veggies Dare To Tread (February 2004) | The Best Value Meal Deals (December 2003) | Hotel Du Vin Bistro (December 2003) | Weaver's Restaurant With Rooms (October 2003) | Straight From The Chateau (October 2003) | The Lounge (August 2003) | Eating Business Class (August 2003) | Where To Eat On The Street (July 2003) | The Wardrobe (July 2003) | Coffee With Your Cash, Sir? (June 2003) | Life (June 2003)
