Sugarvine

Rusholme, the 'Curry Mile', call it what you will. The fact is that this vibrantly Asian quarter of Manchester has no counterpart anywhere else in Britain. Bradford may have just as many curry houses -- but they are not concentrated, as Rusholme is, in a neon strip awash with all kinds of spicy establishments. Cheap, cheerful, glitzy -- you name it, they have it. You can find more or less every variety of curry known to man right here on Wilmslow Road.

But first a short history lesson. The legend which is now Rusholme started out around 20 years ago in modest style, merely as a place where a couple of 'sweet centres' (as they were then known) offered authentic, cheap Asian cuisine in surroundings more akin to a transport café than restaurant. Flagship choices included curried brains and Asian breakfasts (chick pea curry and chapattis with lassi). Now it's much more mainstream and much more touristy. There are some survivors from those early days - including the Sanam and Shezan -- but there are also lots of brasher, brighter pretenders.

There must be at least 40 restaurants on the 'Curry Mile' (plus increasingly ubiquitous takeaways offering even cheaper and equally delicious options). However, a lot of the new kids on the block do tend to come and go. And the quantity of eateries has not always meant improved quality. By and large, the bigger the menu, the smaller the chance of a decent curry. But there are exceptions. Everyone has his or her favourites -- here are ours.

At the award-winning Darbar, you will find some really different dishes a world away from the normal Anglo-Indian fare like Chicken tikka masala and so on. There's Pani puri, flatbread with chickpeas, tamarind sauce, chillis and ginger. Or how about Dhabi vara -- a spicy lentil kebab with yoghurt. All the starters are ridiculously cheap, from £1.80 to a top whack £4.50 for the Lamb chop tikka with five chops. More unusual starter choices include Steam roast chicken at £3.80. Mains with a difference include Paey, lambs' trotters in broth, for £5.90. Then there's Lamb nihari, slow-cooked in herbs and spices, also £5.90. There is an interesting selection of vegetable dishes, including Aloo bhangan, potatoes and aubergines in spice. And plenty of dals and chickpea variations. If you're feeling less adventurous, the usual suspects are out in force too at the Darbar. Baltis, Karahis, Kormas and Vindaloos all priced at under £6. Pride of place, however, goes to the Raan - a roasted full leg of lamb which should be ordered in advance. If you are on a very strict budget, Darbar also has a £6.50 'all you can eat' buffet with free wine for parties of four and over.

Another winner is the Sangam, right on the edge of the curry quarter. They do a formidable roast lamb here too. Starters and main courses are perhaps less adventurous than the Darbar but just as favourably priced. The licensed Sangam is also a very spacious and relaxing place to enjoy a leisurely meal. Veggies are particularly well catered for with dozens of options from side dishes at £3 to main course curries for about £5. A speciality here is the Achari - chicken or lamb cooked with yoghurt and spices. They also do something called a Piaza, with LOTS of green chillies and about the same strength as a vindaloo. Set meals for two with meat are £22.90 and veggies can get the same for just £19.90. The takeaway next door is awesome - kebabs , chillis, salad and naan bread for about £2.60.

One of the greatest things about Rusholme is that the serious competition for business ensures that prices are very keen indeed. It helps even more on the thrifty front if you can take your own booze along, as is the case at the modest Shezan, one of two bearing a name which has been around since the 1970s. Over the road is the licensed version which has been in business since 1976 and really does belie the notion that vast menus mean less quality. There's everything here from Ravi machi (cod fillet marinated in fish sauce) to Tandoori mixed grills (a steal at £5.90) plus Ceylon curries with coconut. If you really want to wreak havoc, there are special meat and garlic curries along with the jalfrezi, rogan josh et al.

For sheer ambience, the Shere Khan cannot be bettered. Open since the early 1990s, it has been re-vamped several times and is light, bright and positively seething with customers. It also has an open kitchen which makes for enjoyable free cabaret. Service, given the numbers who come here, is supremely good. The menu is huge and so are the portions - take a doggy bag. Check out also the nearby Royal Naz (view a 360 degree movie),, an impressive emporium (pictured above) which has won many awards, including National Curry Chef of the Year in 1999. Spoilt for choice is not the word here and it's a popular place for functions and parties. It's got a car park out back so parking is not a problem and is open until 2am during the week and 4am at weekends.

Current winner of Manchester Curry Chef of the Year is the unassuming Spicy Hut. Their award-winning menu comprises Lamb tikka handi, with garlic, ginger, cumin and coriander, and Baingan paneer, a side dish with Paneer cheese, aubergine and mint. They also do 'special sizzlers' -- chicken, lamb and prawns - which make up in great value what they may lack in authenticity. These are also recommended 'for weight watchers.' The daddy of them all is the Sanam, established way back in 1970. Here, they still do the aforementioned Asian chickpea breakfast from 10.30am and you can also order their special Desi Meat Pilau -- spring lamb, rice, saffron, herbs and spices - for £5.60.

Perhaps the greatest thing of all about Rusholme is the fact that everyone finds their own favourites along the way. And it's a never-ending journey because new restaurants open (and close) all the time. By the way, don't forget the Albert - an old-fashioned Irish pub and the traditional starting-point for a cruise along the curry mile. Happy hunting!