Where To Eat In Withington (July 2004)

Where To Eat In Withington (July 2004)

Whereas soaring property prices and new bars and restaurants have made the East and West parts of the Didsbury equation beyond the reach of all but the very well-off, Withington still has a slightly shabby edge which gives it a less aspirational air. This may still be one of the more expensive places to live in south Manchester but thankfully it has retained its 'village' atmosphere and is not in the slightest bit pretentious.

The hub of life here is relatively small. Indeed, most of the action is concentrated on a few hundred yards long stretch along Wilmslow Road -- from the municipal and very functional Library building to the world-famous Christie Hospital on Palatine Road. Where to go? Withington village is big on pubs and places to eat. And by and large they are pretty snug and old-fashioned. Step inside the Albert pub, a tiny tiled building, and you're in a delightful timewarp with a distinctly Irish flavour. The Victoria, a few yards down the road, is rather less charming.

Withington has always had, and still has, a very large Irish community. But now it's dwarfed by the thousands of students who live round here. Hostelries catering for the masses of undergraduates include the barn-like White Lion (once re-named Withington Ale House but now back to its original moniker) and Solomon Grundys, which also does a roaring, trade in hangover breakfasts from 11am to 5.30pm. The 'King Solomon' has two free-range eggs, bacon, Cumberland sausage, black pudding, tomato, mushrooms, potato, beans and toast for just £6.90. Once a pizzeria, then a Lebanese restaurant, this Bohemian café-bar is also clearly very popular with the more artistic members of the local community. There's a chessboard for the intellectuals, newspapers, paintings and photographs by local artists on the walls and international scoff ranging from mussels to pan-fried pigeon, duck salad and beef bourguignon. Top whack is roast duckling at £10.50 and most mains are about £8. Or less. Bangers and mash with pork and leek sausages is £5.90 This independently-owned establishment also has a decent beer and wine list.

The most eccentric eaterie in Withington is the Lemon Grass restaurant (pictured on home page) on Copson Street, which nevertheless serves up top Thai food. From the outside, it looks closed, as in it closed down ages ago. But if you bring your own booze and carefully knock on the door a highly flavoursome night out is guaranteed. Back on Wilmslow Road there's a pizzeria, Don Antonio's, that has been around for ever and still does the business when it comes to decent pizza and pasta dishes as well as old faves like chicken in white wine and cream sauce for about £8. The student flavour of the area is reflected in the fact that house wine is £9.80 a carafe. Décor is basic 1980s with prints on the walls and plastic tablecloths but it's been there a long time and is very popular. The same can be said of Moon's, a no-nonsense Indian eaterie with the usual vast menu, including the £6.50 Moon's Sizzler, tons of chicken or lamb tikka with salad and curry sauce of your choice. Starters are ridiculously cheap -- £1 for a Seekh kebab.

Nearby is Fuel (pictured above), a café-bar which has been open a few years. It's snack food of the burrito and bruschetta variety but there are also interesting salads with halloumi cheese and pitta and, once again, big breakfasts for the youngsters. On the corner of Wilmslow Road is Pleasure, a very offbeat place which offers everything from plain beans on toast to interesting tapas, jacket potatoes, and 'Franco's mushrooms', with garlic and balsamic vinegar. They do live jazz here and there are cocktails for £3.50, including one called the 'Jaffa cake.'

The Canadian Charcoal Pit, a landmark for almost 30 years is there for those who don't have time to stop and eat. Likewise, the Lazeeza Indian takeaway. Further up Wilmslow Road is the picturesque Red Lion pub. Worth checking out is the Aladdin Middle Eastern restaurant opposite -- another long-term survivor. You don't go to Withington for fine dining -- it's largely cheap and cheerful. But the atmosphere is unique and if you like quirky, then this is the place for you.

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