Panacea
A panacea is a remedy for all medical disorders; they haven't found one yet but this excellent restaurant and bar in the middle of Manchester will do nicely in the meantime. It's sited in what was the Lloyd Davies shop (and before that Habitat) and the concept is simple. Top-class decor, a menu featuring dishes from all over the world, great cocktails, and fine wines, spirits and beers. What differentiates Panacea from similar operations in Manchester is the attention to every detail. The ambience is smart, stylish, and suffused with an orange glow -- very flattering! There are comfy sofas, an American-style rectangular bar, and dining area behind which is intimate and welcoming. And then there is the sheer quality of the food.
Portions are kept small, so you can try several dishes without pigging out and mix and match with your friends if so inclined. The eclectic bill of fare includes paella, pilaff, and mini-hamburgers along with aromatic duck pancakes with traditional cucumber spring onion and hoi sin sauce. Another signature dish is cod, tempura fish and chips, tartare sauce and 'Manchester caviar' (mushy peas). So diverse, indeed, that it's difficult to choose -- but full marks go to the Indonesian spiced king prawn and coconut soup which is fragrant, spicy (not too much so) and absolutely delicious. Praise, too, for the Caesar salad which came packed with chicken and, as it should have, anchovies. Persian pilaff, with cumin-crusted lamb, flatbread and minted yoghurt, is another highlight. The lamb is served pink and luscious and goes very nicely with the sea bass -- delicately steamed with lemon grass, wok-fried greens and jasmine rice. All the above dishes check in at about £6 to £9. Side dishes like chips, bread, Asian greens, and rocket and parmesan salad are all a mere £2. Puddings are £4.50 apiece and include hot sugared doughnuts with jam, chocolate and caramel sauce, raspberry and lemon cheesecake, and Valrhona chocolate fudge pudding. There are also mini vanilla bean crème brulees, which are magnificent.
You don't have to eat here. The bar is where many of Manchester's movers and shakers hang out, so the dress code here is pretty stylish, too. The cocktail list is imaginative -- from all kinds of martinis to champagne cocktails and innovations like the Paloma, tequila with lime and freshly squeezed pink grapefruit juice. Delicious and dangerously moreish. The wine list, which is extensive, starts at £16 for a bottle of Pinot Grigio and £30 for more expensive stuff like Pouilly Fume. House champagne is £45, Krug £180 and rose Dom Perignon £300. If you really want to go mad, spirits can be had by the bottle (£100) and then there's Remy Martin Louis X11 at £1500. But the nice thing is that you don't have to spend a fortune here -- an exceptionally decent meal with wine and cocktail can be had for around £35 to £40 a head.
Panacea
14 John Dalton Street
Manchester
Tel: 0161 8330000
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