I had just returned to the UK after spending some years abroad, living variously in Vienna, Munich, Utrecht and Lisbon. The choice of Penzance to live in was almost forced upon me by personal circumstances and the one thing I was worried about was "Would there be restaurants of the same quality that I enjoyed on the continent?". Time would tell.
I tried various restaurants and was moderately satisfied with the fare, but then one day I wandered, with two friends, into The Admiral Benbow... Wow! The maximum option that SugarVine gives me for assessing the ambience is "outstanding" but this falls well short of reality. The pub itself is one of the oldest in Penzance but it had been allowed to go to pieces by the previous owners. Alan and Trish - the current "Mine Hosts" - have made a fabulous investment, and though the hyper-critical might complain that it is a "created" pub, it has been done in such a wonderful way as you will never give it a thought.
"Well", I muttered to myself, "the food cannot possibly keep up with this." How wrong I was!
The variety for a small town restauraunt was amazingly varied so, having been given "carte blanche" by my friends to make the order I mentally picked the "Hot, smoked, Mackeral Fillet" for a starter, and chose and immediately ordered a bottle of Niersteiner to accompany it, which we sipped while I chose the rest of the meal.
Hmmmm... a "Wild Boar Steak" would be different, and wonder of wonders, you can choose your own sauce. I think a "Dianne" sauce, if the boar is good, that particular sauce should off-set it beautifully. To complement the main course, I chose a bottle of a suitably robust Rhone wine.
At this point I should mention, don't come to The Admiral Benbow if you want to be in and out like a rabbit at a burger-bar. Here, each meal is cooked for you individually, so you can relax and enjoy the food, the tipple and the company in comfort. Don't expect to spend less than an hour and a half enjoying yourself (preferably more), but enjoy yourself you will.
The food was superb, after all the chef Craig, is ex- "The Savoy", and while a critic might want a more varied selection in the sweet department, we had Black Cherry Cheesecake and Clotted Cream which you would die for, and a good Brandy finished matters to perfection.
All in all, in my humble opinion, The Admiral Benbow is the best restaurant in Penzance and for many, many miles around and not exorbitantly priced. Less than £120 for three people, including wines of well above average quality, is not what I would call expensive, and you can eat equally well for considerably less if you wish. I have returned several times, changing dishes each time (not all the dishes are as exotic as Wild Boar - and this is no bad thing, AND they do children's meals). I have never been disappointed. I trust I shall be returning for many years to come... and I hope you will come and enjoy good food in a truly wonderful English Restaurant - far from the madding crowd.
