Etsu The current food trends do not favour Japanese food. At the moment people are supposedly looking for seasonal, local, sustainable and above all cheap food and it doesn’t tick those boxes. The conveyor belt restaurant thing never worked for me. You are never sure of what half the dishes are or how long they have been out and while the individual plates seem cheap when added together it is a pricey meal. There are better ways to eat Japanese food, like Etsu. Etsu is near to Albert dock but on a side street. It is easy to miss, even though it is has a little Japanese garden and there are smells of ginger and soy wafting out. Inside there are about a dozen tables so it is a good idea to book. The decor is not over the top oriental kitsch but the room does suffer from having very little natural light. In order to confuse customers the toilets are unisex, so you really feel that you have wondered into the wrong section. The menu has starters, mains courses and desserts , which is unusual as Japanese food normally consists of lots of little dishes brought to the table together. My dining partner loves sushi and I have never seen him happier than stuffing his face in the sushi bars of San Francisco. We didn’t order starters and he charged into the sushi list ordering prawn California rolls and three types of Nigiri sushi; pickled mackerel, barbecued eel and raw scallops. He also went for a mixed sashimi (raw fish) selection. I ordered a chicken katsu which is chicken in tempura batter and served with sticky rice and salad. I don’t often order chicken in restaurants because it is impossible to tell what kind of life it led. I have no idea what they did to this chicken but by God it was tender. It was as far removed from a frozen, battered chicken piece as a roast rib of beef is from a fast food burger and I loved it. The sauce drizzled over it tasted of barbeque sauce and was too sweet. My partner was served the most exotic California rolls I have ever seen. Usually they are a bit of avocado, cucumber and either prawns or roe, surrounded by pickled rice and wrapped in seaweed. Here the seaweed was in between the rice and prawns and rolled in sesame seeds. This sort of inside out sushi is uramki-zushi, according to a book I consulted . My partner didn’t say if he preferred this style but he ate it with a blissful look. I tried a bit of tuna sashimi, it was fresh but cut too thinly, I like the density of oily fish. The serving of scallop was very pretty but tiny . Overall he was delighted. Despite having eaten enough to feed a regiment he still wanted a pudding. I declined; desserts are not traditional in Japan so they are never the chef’s strong point. The dessert special was a sort of coffee flavoured sponge roll . He said “It was bloody delicious” The staff were efficient and polite. I thought the waitress was very helpful, telling us what each dish was, however my partner thought she was just a little patronizing. She told us, with pride, that all the fish was flown in from the Indian and Pacific Oceans daily. If you want to cut down on food miles avoid this place. According to some grim estimates tuna will be extinct within 20 years but as rice and seaweed are plentiful vegetarian sushi has a future. The greatest dsiappointment of this restaurant was the wine list. There is an extensive list of bottled beers but like all bottled beers they are pricey. There are about 4 whites and 4 reds, all of which were brand names available in supermarkets for £10 or less. As a restaurant they should have something more imaginative. They do have a range of saki both by the bottle and in little flasks. My partner had a 125 ml of the house saki and thought it served too warm but otherwise liked it served warm and very much liked it. The bill was £53.80 for two with one bottle of house white at £9.95 for a meal this good, in pleasant surroundings with good staff it excellent value. Japanese food is never and it was my choice to go with a bottomless pit.
Etsu – Liverpool City Centre