Sugarvine

Floating restaurants have a charm all of their own, don't they? It seems pleasantly sybaritic to step onto a vessel dedicated entirely to the pleasures of eating and drinking, particularly if the said vessel is called the Glass Boat. A converted barge anchored in Bristol Docks, the Glass Boat Restaurant, may not be made entirely of glass but at least it has windows on all sides, giving a fine view of the harbour, and it's an altogether enchanting setting for a meal. It's best if you can get a window seat - not that you'd know you were afloat, except on the rare occasions when another boat comes close enough to rock the Glass Boat gently; mostly, though, swans are the only passers by. To one side is Bristol Bridge, the oldest bridge in the city, its base submerged in the nineteenth century when Brunel raised the water level in the docks.

The Glass Boat has a very inviting look as you approach it from the harbourside, gaily festooned with a mass of greenery and hanging baskets, with an inviting gangway almost hidden in among them. Once over the gangway and into the boat you can sit and peruse the menu, glass in hand, in the comfortable lounge area at the stern before taking your seat in the restaurant itself, with its polished walnut and maple floor, bright blue upholstery and candles on the tables.

The Glass Boat was built in Bristol back in 1924. It opened as a restaurant in 1986, and has long had a reputation as one of the best restaurants in Bristol - in 2004 it was chosen by Venue magazine as Bristol Restaurant of the Year. Its cuisine has changed recently, though, with the appointment of a new chef, Andrew Green, late of the Riverstation, who has concentrated on a range of simple, well-cooked dishes. The starters, always neatly presented, include ballontine of foie gras with toasted brioche and pickled pear chutney (£8.75), an attractive combination of different textures and tastes, the sweetness of the pear chutney contrasting nicely with the meaty taste of the foie gras. The red snapper 'saltimbocca' with marinated Spanish black bean salad and sweet chilli dressing (£7.95) has a similar contrast of flavours. Saltimbocca, in case you don't know your Italian, means 'leap into the mouth', which conjures up alarming visions of red snappers leaping up from the plates and attacking their assailants.

The main courses include English cutlet of pork, with black pudding hash, thyme and calvados jus (£17.95), and roast cushion of spring lamb with couscous salad and apricot and mint relish (£16.95). Both variations on traditional themes, these, well-known dishes lifted by the addition of something a bit unusual. Black pudding with your pork cutlet -- not something your average cook would think of, but a combination which adds extra interest to the dish. The wine list is very comprehensive, starting at £12 or so; there is a strong French presence, as well as a good selection of new world wines, including a delicious, and appropriately named, Uruguyan red wine called Bouza Tannat Merlot from Las Violetas (£21.95). The combination of the tannat and merlot grapes produces a pleasingly rich and fruity flavour.

If you're one of those happy people who swear by dessert wines, you'll love the Glass Boat. With the fruit sorbet comes a delicious Australian wine, a late harvest Pinot Gris from Yering Station, Australia (£3.95 per glass). Much sweeter and fuller-bodied, though, is the Uruguyan Juanico 1999 Botrytis Noble (£5.50 per glass) which is served with the Gewürtztraminer and raspberry jelly with madeleines and Chantilly (£5.75). If you feel like further relaxation after your meal you can sample some of the wide range of vintage ports, brandies and malts.

All in all, the Glass Boat makes for a very enjoyable meal - charming surroundings, delicious food and wine, and attentive service. The prices, admittedly, are fairly high, but there are a lot of Bristolians out there who just don't know what they're missing.

The Glass Boat Restaurant
Welsh Back
Bristol
Tel: 0117 929 0704