The Old Coastguard (2008)
Adopting an ethos of dynamism and constant evolution, this Mousehole hotel embodies elegance without pretension offering a unique blend of classical comfort and contemporary style. The restaurant is located downstairs and there is a real wow factor as you enter. The large space is made up of a bar restaurant and a sun lounge area where you can enjoy the commanding sea views and access to the al fresco decked area and subtropical gardens that lead down to rock pools for the kids to explore. The dining rooms are elegant and relaxed with stylish employment of colour, furnishings, lighting and tableware.
A programme of development in the kitchens at The Old Coastguard has seen the appointment of Executive Chef Barney Mason who within a short space of time at the helm has brought the restaurant its second AA Rosette. Barney, whose background is at the Mill End Hotel in Chagford, has restructured the kitchens to allow it to run the systems needed to have everything in place ready to evolve into a multi-Rosette environment. Barney’s arrival has added a new dimension to a kitchen which was already bursting with talent,says owner Bill Treloar. Just look at the reviews and attention we’ve attracted since. I’m convinced we have the culinary firepower - and the front-of-house team - to be a consistent three-Rosette hotel. Of course, we are very happy with our two Rosette status, and any further progression will demand our very best endeavours. We will however be in receipt of invaluable assistance -- local Michelin-starred chef Ben Tunnicliffe is coming on board in an advisory capacity Now that is real firepower.
The staff here are efficient and professional, the choice of drinks is excellent with plenty of wines by the glass. It’s a great place to go for a smart lunch, although there are bar menus and daily boards, and you can kick back and enjoy the competent cooking that offers a broad choice from gourmet sandwiches and salads to elaborate seafood dishes. Enjoy the bistro-style menu that features their signature chicken Caesar salad or smoked Haddock and mustard chowder, Carpaccio of smoked beef or their take on fish cakes. If you are vegetarian you can eat some of the most exciting and innovative dishes around.
The mood changes in the evening as does the menu. Tub chairs and low tables give a lounge bar feel with high end cocktails from a sophisticated list. The bar area now attracts a sophisticated crowd with its new, -Style bar’ image. The evening sees a seasonally changing menu that showcases the best producers and suppliers locally available, offering an A La Carte menu with starters such as Seared Scallops with pork belly, apple and sultana; Terrine of Guinea Fowl with hazelnut mayonnaise and beetroot chutney or Jerusalem Artichoke Veloute with quail eggs, parmesan and truffle. After a cleansing sorbet you might choose Brill with pressed oxtail, poached oysters and braised baby gem; Cornish Duck with pastille of confit leg, navets and foie gras bon bon or Assiette of Lamb with potato fondant, salsa verde and feta. Desserts from Kate MacMaster finish with a firework display for the senses with choices like Valrhona Chocolate Softcake with pistachio ice cream and blood orange salad or Blackberry Souffle with tea infused chocolate pouring sauce. Even the cheeseboard is sublime.
All in all, The Old Coastguard is fast becoming a gourmet mecca in Cornwall. But that’s not all. Bill Treloar and Michael Riemenschneider have now opened an exciting new venture in Penzance, having taken over The Abbey restaurant from renowned local chef Ben Tunnicliffe. To quote Bill: This is the culmination of a long-held ambition of mine to open a really top of the range restaurant in Penzance, my home town. I am delighted to be going into partnership with Michael Riemenschneider, an extraordinarily talented young Swiss-German chef. Michael worked with Barney at the Old Coastguard through last season, and it rapidly became clear to me that we were dealing with an exceptional talent. The Abbey is now in full swing, and Michael is already making a big impact locally.
The Old Coastguard Hotel & Restaurant
Tel: 0871 811 4449
Tel: 0871 811 4419
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