Sugarvine

They said it couldn't be done. They said it was a joke, but George Bowden -- chemist turned winemaker -- had a seriously good wine harvest this year, in Leeds. Yes, you read right -- Leeds, a city known more for its commercial clout than its winemaking. But George Bowden, winemaker extraordinaire, is harvesting one of the best crops ever this year at the Leventhorpe Vineyard, a little piece of vine paradise a stone throw's away from the historic stately home of Temple Newsome. And the most northerly vineyard in Britain.

Since establishing the Leventhorpe vineyard in 1986 (the 1989 harvest was the first to be sold on a commercial basis), George has in fact revived a longstanding tradition dating back to the Cistercian monks at nearby Kirkstall Abbey. However, there is some documentary evidence of winemaking in the region right up until the 19th century according to George and in fact records of winemaking in the region stretch right back to Roman times. One thing the records don't say is how good the wine was but after the long hot summer of 2003 and the bumper harvest it produced, the Leventhorpe 2003 vintage should be one of the best.

The estate has a loyal local client base including small businesses, local restaurants and wine merchants. However 70% of the wine produced here -- both white and red -- is sold on the premises at the farm gate, where you can naturally try before you buy. It's a real find -- if you can actually find it, tucked away between the river Aire and the village of Swillington. The vineyard has its own micro-climate, set on a sheltered south-facing slope benefiting from a warm wind gently breezing up the valley. The rich, loamy, nitrate-based Yorkshire soil provides for good drainage and gives body and character to the wine. And the water courses of the river Aire and the Aire & Clader canal nearby also help to provide slightly warmer conditions, allowing the estate to benefit from an early summer, earlier than the rest of Yorkshire.

Leventhorpe employs traditional methods together with modern equipment and techniques. This, coupled with George Bowden's excellent knowledge of winemaking and his background as a chemist, is helping to raise the reputation of English wines, which are known for their aromatic and fruity bouquet. Indeed, the French are apparently envious of the light body of the Leventhorpe red -- ironically named Triomphe. He also says the Australians are keen to take his advice, as they are now trying to establish vineyards in colder climates -- in the snow-capped hills north of Adelaide, for example.

Our cooler climate is supposed to be excellent for producing white wines -- sparkling in particular. However, not all varieties will ripen in the Yorkshire climate and considerable thought and research was needed before planting began. The Bowdens ended up with three varieties grown at Leventhorpe, the Madeleine Angevine (Janet Bowden's favourite) which is a late budder and early ripener giving a high quality white wine. It is reliable even in poorer years ripening by mid-October at the latest. Three and a half acres are planted up and have proved themselves over the last 15 years. The estate produces 3-4 tons of grapes per acre resulting in 3,000 bottles of wine. One acre is planted for the Seyval Blanc which ripens later than Madeleine but can give twice the crop in some years. It is grown for reliability, yield and the quality of its white wine. The Triomphe makes up the rest of the five-acre site, and gives a fine red wine with good potential for ageing.

Leventhorpe's success has not happened overnight, of course. Much research and experimentation is required to find the 'golden' vine that is right for the location. Many other vines -- around 20 varieties in total -- are grown for experimental purposes to assess their potential and to compare their own roots with grafted rootstocks. In George's own words: "It does require attention to detail and knowledge of the growing habits of the vine as it can be an unforgiving taskmaster."

The Leventhorpe wines sell between £5 and £11 (sparkling). The Madeleine Grand Reserve is kept for George's more discerning customers. One of the more local customers, being within a stone's throw of the vineyard is The Cloisters Italian restaurant in Swillington, where they serve the Seyval with -- according to George- - "A first class meal at real value for money." Another of his customers is the Oulton Hall Hotel, - one of the area's quality hotels where you can play golf, work out, take a sauna, or simply gorge on some of the best local produce available -- washed down with one of Leventhorpe's own, of course.