Sugarvine

We're all familiar with the Michelin stars and Les Routier emblems, which mark out decent places to go for a meal. Now Britain's booming Thai restaurant scene is being boosted by a new quality mark which has been awarded to eateries by the Royal Thai Government itself. To receive this award of excellence, which is valid for 3 years, Thai restaurants must pass a strict selection process by a joint committee comprised of representatives of the Royal Thai Embassy, Office of Commercial Affairs, Tourism Authority of Thailand and Thai Restaurant Association. There are now over 5,000 Thai restaurants worldwide, approximately 650 of which are in the UK.

Manchester, to date, has four that officially make the government grade. One, unsurprisingly, is the always excellent Siam Orchid on Portland Street. The three others are its neighbour the Royal Orchid, Withington's Lemon Grass and the Thai E-Sarn Classic in West Didsbury. The aim of the quality standard is to ensure diners that they can be confident they are choosing the best in Thai cuisine when they eat out. As long-time devotees of all things Thai, we would add several other Manchester establishments to that list - namely Pacific, Koh Samui, the Jitrada and Chilli Banana.

So what's the benchmark when it comes to good Thai grub? Firstly, forget those awful bland "green curries" which have become as commonplace as chicken tikka masala on pub menus across the land. A real Thai curry is fragrant with fresh herbs and spices, spiked with chilli, and humming with flavours. Accept no substitutes. Pacific, (pictured above), on Faulkner Street, has the longest list of Thai curries you will ever have come across. As well as the familiar red and green variety, they also do a wonderful yellow curry, which is milder, packed with onion and potato. Pacific is also probably the most showy of Manchester's Thai eateries. It's here you'll spot celebs and the movers and shakers. The menu is a big one; there's a large choice for vegetarians and the surroundings are ultra stylish. Starters like salt and pepper ribs and Thai fishcakes are simply gorgeous. And it's very easy indeed to spend several hours enjoying the food and people-watching. Lunchtime buffets here are famous -- about £7 for all you can eat.

The Royal Orchid, just down the road on Charlotte Street, has a more old-fashioned feel, largely because it opened in the early 1990s. However, the food is very good indeed. They do a fabulous beef stir-fry with basil and chilli, along with all the usual faves like hot and sour soup and noodle dishes. The wine list is particularly good value -- you can treat yourself to Chablis at £20 a bottle. With a cheaper choice of tipple, dinner for two here is a very reasonable £25 a head. A few yards on is Siam Orchid. Manchester's first Thai restaurant opened in 1985 and it has not changed much since in terms of decor. Here, the food takes centre-stage. If you're on a budget, the Siam Orchid has some wonderful deals. An early doors supper before 7pm (starter, main course and coffee) is just £5.95 and they do excellent lunchtime set menus too. A lunchtime buffet is a recent innovation. This restaurant is particularly popular with the business community and the staff are very friendly. It can't be faulted for consistency or quality.

On Princess Street is the Koh Samui,, sited in premises which were once the base for the much-missed Chiang Rai Thai establishment. A word of warning here -- the chef makes no concessions to Western taste and the curries are very hot indeed. Portions are huge, too. Don't over-order or you will find yourself going home with several doggy bags. Whatever you do, don't ask for extra chillis. This basement colonial-style eaterie garners quite a few after-work customers, it's also a nice one for a romantic assignation. And, despite the awesome reputation of its predecessor, the Koh Samui has managed to carve its own niche with lovers of Thai food.

South of the city is the Lemon Grass, another winner of the Thai government's seal of approval. It's on Copson Street, Withington, and frankly quirky in the extreme. The premises are unprepossessing -- you take your own wine -- but the food is easily as good as anything you will find in the city centre and possibly better -- hence the award. A mile or so away is the Thai-e-Sarn, on Burton Road. This one recently re-located from its previous home in Northenden and is a favourite with local families, having quietly earned an excellent reputation for first-class cooking. The same is true of the Jitrada, in Sale.

Right in Manchester's deep south - heading out of Wilmslow on Alderley Road - you'll find Chilli Banana. Although somewhat incongruously located in the Kings Arms pub, you can be assured of an authentic Thai experience here. The décor is traditional and the food home-style, prepared by co-owner May. It's become something of a destination restaurant and if you fancy a visit, the sumptuous Sunday lunch buffer is a good starting point.

In terms of menu differentiation, there isn't that much between these establishments -- much in the same way as Indian restaurants in the UK tend to offer similar dishes across the land. But what differentiates the good from the bad is the authenticity of the cooking and the attention to detail. These days, there are some truly awful places calling themselves 'Thai'. Thankfully, none in the Manchester vicinity, which in all has 35 eateries. If you're a newcomer to Thai cuisine, the easiest option is a set banquet. But these tend to be geared to the more unexciting end of the menu -- spring rolls, chicken satay and so on. Strike out on the a la carte instead. Peculiar to Thai cuisine is the wonderfully fragrant tom yam hot and sour soup. Unlike the Chinese variety, it does not come crammed with MSG and e-numbers. The basis is clear stock spiked with lemongrass, lime leaves, coriander and chilli, with chicken, seafood, or beef slices floating in spring onions and chilli. Dieters note that this is also unbelievably low in calories.

Proper Thai fishcakes are another good choice -- at Manchester's Pacific they also do a wonderful fritter-type thing with chicken, sweetcorn and chilli. Curry-wise, the Thai variety is a completely different animal to the Indian version. Coconut milk instead of ghee, lemongrass instead of cumin, with most rather more subtle in flavour. If curry isn't your thing, Thai menus are also crammed with stir-fries, noodle salads, and the famous Pad Thai -- noodles with chicken, seafood, and egg. It's not as bloating as Indian food, so you can easily quaff a nice crisp bottle or two of white with your meal. Thai beer is also available in most eateries these days.

For absolute beginners, there's another choice in Manchester -- Jim Thompson's, a Thai theme restaurant housed in what was once Henry's café-bar. It's Thai-lite -- with a small menu based on tried and trusted staples. But still decent quality fishcakes, soups and curries.