Zinc Bar & Grill (May 2002)

Zinc Bar & Grill (May 2002)

It's now two years since Sir Terence Conran made his first foray into the north and since then Zinc has more than proved itself as a stylish place to eat and drink. It's split over two levels - upstairs, a smallish restaurant; below, a larger bar area with armchairs and tables that extends onto the street. The décor may not be everyone's cup of tea - minimalist, with lots of chrome - but Zinc blends well with the rest of The Triangle, the upmarket shopping complex in which it's housed.

In the run-up to the Commonwealth Games, Zinc is offering a new global menu with a range of flavours from Northern Europe, Asia and the New World. Classics such as Macaroni Cheese are brought nicely up to date with a Saffron and Parmesan sauce (£7.50) and there's the full-spiced Indian flavour of Tarka Dahl with yoghurt and flat bread (£8). Other new dishes from Head Chef Nick Male include Venison Loin (£14.50) and Swordfish (£13.50).

But it's Zinc's grills that are its real strength. Lobster, always a wonderful luxury, is very reasonable -- £18.50 for half, or £29.50 for a whole lobster. The steaks are good too -- char-grilled and beautifully pink on the inside (not the cremated horror which you usually get in this country when you ask for "medium"). Signature starters include Smoked Salmon with blinis and horseradish with creme fraiche (£7.50). Padding -- chips, side salads and so on -- is provided at about £3 a throw.

Desserts are light and flavoursome rather than stodge-packed. Rice Pudding is given an Asian twist with coconut and pineapple (£4) and the diet-conscious can opt for the Cut Fresh Fruit (£4.00). If you're only snacking, you can get bar snacks and tapas downstairs - the Caesar Salad is £4.50. Many people come just to drink and Zinc is a mecca for cocktail lovers. Choose from an eclectic mix of contemporary and classic cocktails, all at £4.50. The wine list offers a good-value selection of 18 quality wines, including the house Champagne, Piper Heidsieck, at £29.50 a bottle.

Zinc is open from 8am to midnight during the week, and until 2am at weekends for breakfast, morning coffee, brunch, afternoon tea, dinner, late drinks and bar-food. And with the opening of the Urbis visitor attraction opposite set for June 26, its only going to get busier.

Zinc Bar and Grill
The Triangle
Hanging Ditch
Manchester
0161 827 4200

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