Ithaca
Ithaca, on John Dalton Street, is a curious name for a Japanese restaurant. More Kefalonia than karaoke really. But nevertheless the real deal it is and the place is already earning absolutely rave reviews for its food and opulent ambience.
The brainchild of Manchester entrepreneur Arnie Hira, its opening has been promised since late 2006 but the long wait has been worth it. There used to be an old-fashioned Italian restaurant on this site but there is absolutely no trace of its red and white tablecloths. The place has been gutted and completely refurbished and Ithaca now promises to be THE destination eaterie of choice for the young, trendy and those of all ages with plenty of cash to spare. It's around £50 a head -- choosing modestly -- to eat here. Going for broke will set you back upwards of £70.
The man in charge of proceedings is Chef Nasser Laziri who previously was at the helm in Nozomi in Knightsbridge. If you know London, that says it all in terms of the kind of quality cuisine on offer here. If you are not familiar with the capital, it means stylish food of a class rare outside the metropolis. First, the décor, because that is the first thing which strikes first-time diners. There are stunning black glass walls, and lots of silver with many nods to Art Deco with chrome and silver a running motif. Understated it's not. As well as being a restaurant, complete with two dining rooms, Ithaca doubles up as a bar -- the Astoria on the second floor -- and it's open till 1am. Dress code is ultra-smart. Though the cuisine is of essence Japanese, it also has lots of Pan-Asian influences and there is far more to savour than standard sushi and sashimi.
These two favourites with the English palate are an eclectic selection and the choice is enticing with far more range than you get in the typical Japanese restaurant. There is king crab, scallops, sea bass, and rolls with spicy tuna, eel and cucumber. These are all around a fiver apiece. There is also a vegetarian sushi selection for £17. 'Small dishes', as they are described on the menu, include imaginative combinations like braised quail with shitake mushrooms, seared scallops with miso and caviar, plus king crab with white asparagus and black truffles. Luxury, indeed.
Main courses require some serious investment as they are around the £20 mark. Flagship choices include roast sea bass with ginger and steamed pak choi, sliced duck breast with carrots and raisins, and whole baby chicken with soy beans. Another signature dish is the black cod marinated in sweet miso. Top of the scale is whole grilled lobster for £32 with chilli and yuzu juice (a Japanese citrus fruit). Much of the menu will be unfamiliar territory but don't be afraid to ask. Fish and seafood is plentiful with lots of interesting and unusual options. Another highlight is yellow tail sashimi dressed in soy with a sweet and sour salsa. One also to look out for is the Wagayu beef, served carpaccio-style.
If you want to keep the costs down it's a good idea to go for the small dishes and starters. In terms of portion size and range, if not actual flavour, these are similar to the Chinese dim sum concept. But cheese-paring isn't really what this place is about. The really great thing about Japanese food is that it's also extremely healthy but Ithaca does have the odd supremely decadent dish -- perhaps most notably a blend of sweet eel teriyaki, brioche millefeuille, sliced foie gras and pickled cherries. The wine list, as you'd expect, is extremely extensive and though much is pretty eye-watering pricewise there are affordable options around the £20 mark. Puddings are much less exotic than the main events - the dessert list includes stalwarts like sorbet and chocolate fondant. But then most people will be coming for the starters, sushi and mains. Put simply, Ithaca is a top-class restaurant with top-class prices. And it's worth saving up for.
Ithaca
36 John Dalton Street
Manchester
M2 6LE
Tel: 0870 740 4000
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