Light Lunch (January 2003)

Light Lunch (January 2003)

As Manchester gets ever more stylish, we're ridiculously spoilt for choice at lunchtimes. You may still have a soft spot for the traditional greasy spoon but truth is that they are fast disappearing under a wave of urban lunchtime chic. Chains like Pret A Manger have upped the ante when it comes to providing quality butties. Who can imagine a world without their crayfish and rocket specials! And stalwarts like the independently owned Philpotts are still able to compete -- their made-to-order sandwiches available on various breads, daily hot specials and fresh soups are up there with the best there is on offer. But if you live or work in the city centre, there are a growing number of new kids on the block.

A top recommendation is the newly opened Shlurp, housed in what used to be a pretty downmarket butty shop opposite St Mary's, Mulberry Street. It opened just a couple of weeks before Christmas and is already doing a roaring trade. Run by husband-and-wife team Lucy and Andrew Walker, the concept is cunningly simple -- around a dozen soups, all made from scratch fresh every day with no chemicals or additives. It's the kind of idea, which launched Soup Dragon in the Triangle some time ago (sadly that particular idea foundered). But prices here are eminently competitive with most cartons of the steaming stuff selling at prices far lower than outlets on nearby Brasenose Street.

The soup menu changes weekly, but there's always a "Skinny" low-calorie soup - try the surprisingly flavoursome vegetable bouillon with a julienne of castors and courgettes. Other options include plum tomato and basil broth. Those not on diets can tuck into "Classic" options like hearty oxtail stew and dumplings. Plus, there's an "Organic" menu choice - sweet potato, chilli, coconut at the top dollar price of £2.30. Budget soups include potato and leek and chicken and leek for just £1. It's also worth checking out the fishy stuff like Cullen Skink -- the famous Scottish soup that comes complete with smoked haddock, potato, and onion. Clam chowder is another regular. Shlurp isn't a sandwich place but you can pick up rolls and hot ciabatta with your soup. There's also an enormous all-day breakfast served on a giant potato cake. Fruit juices and smoothies are also available.

Just down the road at swanky Number One Deansgate is Nutrilicious. It may sound like one of those slimming powders which sell out at this time of year but in fact it's a chic lunch bar with lots of pine seating which aims to offer simple, quality food. There are salads in boxes, veggie specials, plus for the traditionalists, bacon sandwiches. You can get a coffee, read the papers (there's plenty of room), and just chill. It's the brainchild of Kim O'Connell, whose aim is to pare things down to the basics. The sandwich range is short and sweet -- ham salads, cheese and coleslaw, no butter on the bread: "People tell us these days they prefer it that way," says Kim. "You can tuck into cereal and milk, enjoy a hot chicken sandwich or roast potato wedges (cooked in olive oil). We can serve you in a couple of minutes, but it's not fast food; no additives, no junk."

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